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The team at Industrial Wheels and Castors

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orders received after Friday 8th December 2017 will not be processed until business resume on Monday the
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We will respond to all enquiries and process orders on our return.
The team at Industrial Wheels and Castors wishes you peace, joy and prosperity throughout the coming year.
The team at Industrial Wheels and Castors

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IWC | News | Makes this father’s day one to remember!

Makes this father’s day one to remember! August 20, 2018 - Posted in:

DIY Castor Table with Built-In Beer/Wine Coolers

Make you and your dad the proudest duo in the neighbourhood this Father’s Day with this beer friendly table. Featuring built-in coolers and castors this DIY table will make entertaining your family and friends a breeze.

Before the build you’ll need to pick up the timber and two planter boxes of your choice, which you’ll then customize the table to fit. The table’s finished size is about 3′ wide (914.4mm), 6′ long (1828.8mm) and 36″ tall (914.4mm) and has full locking nylon castors (LZST05020-2PPP(F)), making this table easy to move around and secure on the patio.

Instructions

1. Cut the timber

Using your circular saw cut the following pieces:

  • (1) piece of 3/4″ plywood, 33 x 69″ for the cooler top
  • (4) pieces of 3/4″plywood, 12 x 12″ for the leg supports
  • (3) 2 x 6 boards, 69″ long for the tabletop spacers
  • (3) 2 x 6 boards, 33″ long for the tabletop spacers
  • (7) 1 x 6 boards, 72″ long for the decking planks
  • (2) 1 x 4 boards, 33″ long for the apron short sides
  • (2) 1 x 4 boards, 70 1/2″ long for the apron long sides
  • (8) 2 x 4 boards, 32″ long for the legs

 

2.Cut Holes for the Planter Boxes

Place your planter boxes upside down, and centre them where you want them on the table. Leave at least 7″ of space between the boxes at the centre of the table. Trace around the boxes with a pencil. Draw another line inside the perimeter of each outline, so that the lip on the planter box becomes the shelf to hold the planter box cooler.

Drill a hole using a 1/2″ bit and then use a jigsaw to cut out the holes.

 

 

3. Add the Spacers Then Sand + Apply Finish

Apply weather-resistant wood glue to the three 33″ long 2 x 6 spacers. Fit them flush along the ends of the plywood and one centred between the cooler box cut-outs. Screw the spacers to the plywood with 2″ screws. Sand the decking planks smooth.

Round and blunt all the corners and edges using an electric sander and 100-grit sandpaper. Apply your choice of stain and exterior finish to the sides and bottoms of the planks. Add finish to the bottoms of the table legs to seal them.

 

 

4. Mark and Cut the Lids

Arrange the seven 1 x 6 planks side-by-side on a flat surface so all of their ends are flush. Place the tabletop on top of the planks so it is centred. Trace the cooler openings onto the planks. Remove the tabletop and draw an outline 3/4″ outside of the traced openings (these are the outlines of the cooler lids).

Use a circular saw to out cut each lid section from the planks. Clamp the 1 x 6 lid sections together side-by-side with water-resistant glue, and allow the glue to dry for at least one hour.

 

 

5. Cut the Lid Finger Holes

Remove the clamps and use a jigsaw to cut small semicircles on one side of both lids for the finger holes. Use a circular saw to cut four 1 1/2 x 2″ blocks from scrap 2 x 6. Screw them to the corners on the bottoms of the lids with 2″ screws.

These are the feet for the lids, to make them fit flush with the top of the decking planks.

 

 

6.Install the Decking Planks

Remove the clamps and use a jigsaw to cut small semicircles on one side of both lids for the finger holes. Use a circular saw to cut four 1 1/2 x 2″ blocks from scrap 2 x 6. Screw them to the corners on the bottoms of the lids with 2″ screws.

These are the feet for the lids, to make them fit flush with the top of the decking planks.

 

 

7. Add the Apron

Apply weather-resistant glue to the two 33″ long 1 x 4 apron boards. Screw them on to cover the spacers and plywood on the ends of the tabletop, using 1 1/2″ screws. Install the 70 1/2″ long apron pieces on the sides of the tabletop to complete the apron.

 

 

8. Building the Legs

Apply glue to one side of four of the 32″ long 2 x 4 leg pieces. Join each of these pieces face-to-face with one of the four remaining leg pieces and screw them together to create four 3 x 3 1/2″ legs. Apply glue to the top end of each leg. Centre one piece of 12 x 12″ plywood on top of each leg. Screw the plywood to the legs with 2″ screws to create a “T” shape.

 

 

9. Smoothing the surface

Sand the tabletop and lids smooth using a belt sander and a 100-grit sanding belt. Repeat sanding everything, including the legs, using a detail sander and 100-grit sandpaper.

 

 

10. Attach the Legs to the Table Top

Apply glue to the plywood supports on top of the legs. Turn the tabletop upside down. Position one leg in each corner. Screw the supports to the bottom of tabletop plywood with 1 1/2″ screws. Turn the table upright.

 

(Buy the castor here: https://www.industrialwheelsandcastors.com.au/product/castors-wheels/)

11.Finish the Tablehttps://www.industrialwheelsandcastors.com.au/product/castors-wheels/

Apply your choice of stain and one or more coats of exterior finish, following the manufacturers’ directions for application techniques and drying times.

Turn your table upside down and place the castor mounting plate onto the bottom of the legs, making sure it’s aligned in the middle. Trace and rule off the outer edges of the mounting plate. Using a drill screw four flat top screws through the mounting plate holes to secure the castor. Repeat for all legs. Once all the castors are attached to the table, flip the table over and lower the cooler bins into the openings and add ice…and don’t forget the beer!

 

Disclaimer: Safety precautions must be taken when using power tools. We recommend the use of eye goggles and making sure your work space is clear.